When looking for a new power source for my RC Bug , I ran across a very unusual motor from Dualsky . This tiny outrunner contains a 6 amp brushless speed controller in the motor housing. That means you get a matched motor and ESC with no hassles of soldering bullet connectors or checking which way the motor spins, and less wire clutter when installed. Read on for our review.
Specifications
Diameter
28 mm
Length
18 mm
Weight
25 grams
KV
1780
LiPo Battery
2 to 3 cells
Max Amps
10A for 15 seconds
Max Watts
80W for 15 seconds
Street Price
$55 USD
The Dualsky line is distributed in the U.S. by 2DogRC , who sent along this motor for review. The XMotor 2812RTR comes in two versions: 33 windings for a KV of 1470 , and 27 windings for a KV of 1780 , which is the unit I received. Both motors are also available in more traditional form without the ESC if you prefer to use your own controller.
My first task was to figure out how to best use this power system. I had been flying with the LightFlite blue motor (1100 KV) and ESC that come in the Bug combo. These gave very good power with a GWS 10x6 prop on 2S, and ballistic power on 3S.
Mark at 2DogRC was very helpful when picking which XMotor to choose, how to prop it, and what battery to use. We decided to go with the 1780 KV version, which meant dropping down to a GWS 8x4 prop. For those keeping score, that means the ability to fly one inch lower than with the old prop. Both 2S and 3S batteries would work, although he cautioned me that I might see heat problems on 3S if I held a hover for a long time, due to lack of airflow over the motor. I'll get ahead of myself a bit here and mention that no matter how hard I pushed this motor on 3S, it never overheated.
Since the motor-ESC connection is internal, the XMotor only has two connectors exiting the case. The power leads came with a JST connector, which I replaced with a Dean's micro to match my batteries. The other wire is a standard servo connector for throttle and receiver power, which runs to channel 3 as usual. It takes a little getting used to seeing these connectors coming directly out of the motor, but I really like how it simplifies the installation.
The RC Bug comes with a plastic tube mount, which allows the blue combo motor to be directly inserted, or to mount a different motor on a circular plate. The plate which came with mine was too small for the XMotor, so I contacted Ron at LightFlite who was happy to send a larger one.
At a minimum this plate required drilling two holes for the mounting screws, but I also wanted the ESC at the back of the casing to have as much ventilation as possible. Therefore I drilled a number of large holes in the mounting plate and cleaned up the surface with a Dremel. I could have cut down the outside of the plate to reduce drag and weight a bit but decided to leave it.
The LightFlite motor and ESC weigh a total of 32 grams, whereas the XMotor is 25.7 grams. That's a nice savings, but the XMotor puts all its weight at the front. This was easy to compensate for by moving the battery back a bit. I already had a strip of velcro running down the fuse so I could change the CG for different size packs.
The XMotor came with the prop saver already attached, a couple of step-up rings, and a couple of rubber O-rings. The GWS 8x4 props have a hexagonal cutout on the back, so I had to make it a bit rounder and use one of the step-up rings, which subsequently popped out in a light crash. I have since flown without it, which gives the prop a little side-to-side wobble when off, but flies OK with perhaps a small hit to efficiency.
Flying with the XMotor has been great. I've put about 20 packs through it as of this writing. On 2S the Bug floats around beautifully but still has enough power to go vertical forever. On 3S, it's a screamer: a full power snap happens basically in place, and an inside loop takes only a little more room. Fast level flight is also possible, but since the Bug has no airfoil it takes a lot of elevator management not to climb or dive.
With hard use the motor comes down fairly warm but never uncomfortable to touch. I typically get 10 minute flights on a 2S 460 mAh battery, and 8 minutes using a 3S 300 mAh pack.
I'm quite impressed with the Dualsky XMotor 2812RTR . Packing an ESC inside a brushless outrunner motor is a great idea, both for convenience and weight savings. It's a great example of integration which still lets you choose between 72 Mhz and 2.4 GHz receivers, unlike the 4-in-1 units on some micro helicopters. I'm happy to recommend the XMotor for your next foamie or indoor plane.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Dualsky XMotor Review
When looking for a new power source for my RC Bug , I ran across a very unusual motor from Dualsky . This tiny outrunner contains a 6 amp brushless speed controller in the motor housing. That means you get a matched motor and ESC with no hassles of soldering bullet connectors or checking which way the motor spins, and less wire clutter when installed. Read on for our review.
Specifications
Diameter
28 mm
Length
18 mm
Weight
25 grams
KV
1780
LiPo Battery
2 to 3 cells
Max Amps
10A for 15 seconds
Max Watts
80W for 15 seconds
Street Price
$55 USD
The Dualsky line is distributed in the U.S. by 2DogRC , who sent along this motor for review. The XMotor 2812RTR comes in two versions: 33 windings for a KV of 1470 , and 27 windings for a KV of 1780 , which is the unit I received. Both motors are also available in more traditional form without the ESC if you prefer to use your own controller.
My first task was to figure out how to best use this power system. I had been flying with the LightFlite blue motor (1100 KV) and ESC that come in the Bug combo. These gave very good power with a GWS 10x6 prop on 2S, and ballistic power on 3S.
Mark at 2DogRC was very helpful when picking which XMotor to choose, how to prop it, and what battery to use. We decided to go with the 1780 KV version, which meant dropping down to a GWS 8x4 prop. For those keeping score, that means the ability to fly one inch lower than with the old prop. Both 2S and 3S batteries would work, although he cautioned me that I might see heat problems on 3S if I held a hover for a long time, due to lack of airflow over the motor. I'll get ahead of myself a bit here and mention that no matter how hard I pushed this motor on 3S, it never overheated.
Since the motor-ESC connection is internal, the XMotor only has two connectors exiting the case. The power leads came with a JST connector, which I replaced with a Dean's micro to match my batteries. The other wire is a standard servo connector for throttle and receiver power, which runs to channel 3 as usual. It takes a little getting used to seeing these connectors coming directly out of the motor, but I really like how it simplifies the installation.
The RC Bug comes with a plastic tube mount, which allows the blue combo motor to be directly inserted, or to mount a different motor on a circular plate. The plate which came with mine was too small for the XMotor, so I contacted Ron at LightFlite who was happy to send a larger one.
At a minimum this plate required drilling two holes for the mounting screws, but I also wanted the ESC at the back of the casing to have as much ventilation as possible. Therefore I drilled a number of large holes in the mounting plate and cleaned up the surface with a Dremel. I could have cut down the outside of the plate to reduce drag and weight a bit but decided to leave it.
The LightFlite motor and ESC weigh a total of 32 grams, whereas the XMotor is 25.7 grams. That's a nice savings, but the XMotor puts all its weight at the front. This was easy to compensate for by moving the battery back a bit. I already had a strip of velcro running down the fuse so I could change the CG for different size packs.
The XMotor came with the prop saver already attached, a couple of step-up rings, and a couple of rubber O-rings. The GWS 8x4 props have a hexagonal cutout on the back, so I had to make it a bit rounder and use one of the step-up rings, which subsequently popped out in a light crash. I have since flown without it, which gives the prop a little side-to-side wobble when off, but flies OK with perhaps a small hit to efficiency.
Flying with the XMotor has been great. I've put about 20 packs through it as of this writing. On 2S the Bug floats around beautifully but still has enough power to go vertical forever. On 3S, it's a screamer: a full power snap happens basically in place, and an inside loop takes only a little more room. Fast level flight is also possible, but since the Bug has no airfoil it takes a lot of elevator management not to climb or dive.
With hard use the motor comes down fairly warm but never uncomfortable to touch. I typically get 10 minute flights on a 2S 460 mAh battery, and 8 minutes using a 3S 300 mAh pack.
I'm quite impressed with the Dualsky XMotor 2812RTR . Packing an ESC inside a brushless outrunner motor is a great idea, both for convenience and weight savings. It's a great example of integration which still lets you choose between 72 Mhz and 2.4 GHz receivers, unlike the 4-in-1 units on some micro helicopters. I'm happy to recommend the XMotor for your next foamie or indoor plane.
Specifications
Diameter
28 mm
Length
18 mm
Weight
25 grams
KV
1780
LiPo Battery
2 to 3 cells
Max Amps
10A for 15 seconds
Max Watts
80W for 15 seconds
Street Price
$55 USD
The Dualsky line is distributed in the U.S. by 2DogRC , who sent along this motor for review. The XMotor 2812RTR comes in two versions: 33 windings for a KV of 1470 , and 27 windings for a KV of 1780 , which is the unit I received. Both motors are also available in more traditional form without the ESC if you prefer to use your own controller.
My first task was to figure out how to best use this power system. I had been flying with the LightFlite blue motor (1100 KV) and ESC that come in the Bug combo. These gave very good power with a GWS 10x6 prop on 2S, and ballistic power on 3S.
Mark at 2DogRC was very helpful when picking which XMotor to choose, how to prop it, and what battery to use. We decided to go with the 1780 KV version, which meant dropping down to a GWS 8x4 prop. For those keeping score, that means the ability to fly one inch lower than with the old prop. Both 2S and 3S batteries would work, although he cautioned me that I might see heat problems on 3S if I held a hover for a long time, due to lack of airflow over the motor. I'll get ahead of myself a bit here and mention that no matter how hard I pushed this motor on 3S, it never overheated.
Since the motor-ESC connection is internal, the XMotor only has two connectors exiting the case. The power leads came with a JST connector, which I replaced with a Dean's micro to match my batteries. The other wire is a standard servo connector for throttle and receiver power, which runs to channel 3 as usual. It takes a little getting used to seeing these connectors coming directly out of the motor, but I really like how it simplifies the installation.
The RC Bug comes with a plastic tube mount, which allows the blue combo motor to be directly inserted, or to mount a different motor on a circular plate. The plate which came with mine was too small for the XMotor, so I contacted Ron at LightFlite who was happy to send a larger one.
At a minimum this plate required drilling two holes for the mounting screws, but I also wanted the ESC at the back of the casing to have as much ventilation as possible. Therefore I drilled a number of large holes in the mounting plate and cleaned up the surface with a Dremel. I could have cut down the outside of the plate to reduce drag and weight a bit but decided to leave it.
The LightFlite motor and ESC weigh a total of 32 grams, whereas the XMotor is 25.7 grams. That's a nice savings, but the XMotor puts all its weight at the front. This was easy to compensate for by moving the battery back a bit. I already had a strip of velcro running down the fuse so I could change the CG for different size packs.
The XMotor came with the prop saver already attached, a couple of step-up rings, and a couple of rubber O-rings. The GWS 8x4 props have a hexagonal cutout on the back, so I had to make it a bit rounder and use one of the step-up rings, which subsequently popped out in a light crash. I have since flown without it, which gives the prop a little side-to-side wobble when off, but flies OK with perhaps a small hit to efficiency.
Flying with the XMotor has been great. I've put about 20 packs through it as of this writing. On 2S the Bug floats around beautifully but still has enough power to go vertical forever. On 3S, it's a screamer: a full power snap happens basically in place, and an inside loop takes only a little more room. Fast level flight is also possible, but since the Bug has no airfoil it takes a lot of elevator management not to climb or dive.
With hard use the motor comes down fairly warm but never uncomfortable to touch. I typically get 10 minute flights on a 2S 460 mAh battery, and 8 minutes using a 3S 300 mAh pack.
I'm quite impressed with the Dualsky XMotor 2812RTR . Packing an ESC inside a brushless outrunner motor is a great idea, both for convenience and weight savings. It's a great example of integration which still lets you choose between 72 Mhz and 2.4 GHz receivers, unlike the 4-in-1 units on some micro helicopters. I'm happy to recommend the XMotor for your next foamie or indoor plane.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
BUKU Self-Tuning Exhaust System Review
In the RC world, one of the things that we think about most is getting the absolute best power from our vehicles that we can. One element that is crucial to having the best power possible from your vehicle is a well matched exhaust system that can complement the power of your motor. Alot of times, you can have the best motor out there, but if you haven't paired it with a good exhaust, you can kiss all the horsepower and abilities of your motor goodbye. On the flip side, if you have a old motor, or a motor that does not create alot of power, you can wake it up or give it a good kick in the rear by adding a great exhaust. The question is, which one? This is where the Buku comes in.
Direct quote fromDave, the owner of Buku Performance Products:
Buku Performance Products was conceived from a passion for technological innovation. We are focused on developing products which are truly innovative and that help the R/C enthusiast to obtain the highest levels of performance. We believe that innovative thinking and objective testing are the foundations for the finest R/C products. Every product we develop is the result of thorough research and engineering, followed up with the most exhaustive real world testing. Our devotion to fundamental research and objective evaluation ensures that out products will not only be unique in design and function but also truly superior in performance.
After I had tried several exhausts on my Savage X 4.6, I was ready to find an exhaust that really worked. I was getting tired of false claims of increased power, when mostly every exhaust I had tried only made the truck look good, and perform worse. After doing some hard research, I gave Buku a call. When Dave answered the phone, I was astounded at how professional and educated he was on the product. After having a good long talk with Dave, I was sure that I had found my exhaust. Dave was able to give me a in depth explanation of the exhaust and how it functions, and also seemed very down to Earth, like he was sure about his product and was not just trying to sell me something to put money in his own pocket. At the end of our conversation, I felt confident in my decision to give the Buku a shot, and couldn't have been more anxious to test it out.
Two days later, my exhaust came in the mail.I was very happy with the packaging and presentation of the exhaust. The exhaust is sent in a small cardboard box, with the exhaust itself protected very well by foam, and all the extra parts and gadgets in their own smallsection of the box, also well protectedby foam inserts.Included with the exhaust are a very sturdy mounting wire, a tuning plug, several zip-ties, a larger convergent cone, an extra ring (both explained later), a very detailed and comprehensive instruction booklet, a light, medium, and hard stiffness tuning springs, and a tuning and adjustment wrench. Don't forget, there are also plenty of stickers included to deck out your ride and pit area. After reading every bit of the instructions, I was very confident and was sure about the processes I needed to take to make sure I got the very best performance out of my Buku exhaust.
The mounting process for the exhaust is a breeze, and you can use virtually any header design with the exhaust. Not only are there plenty of holes for spring coupling type headers, but the exhaust is also compatible with regular rubber coupler systems. The best of both worlds! The included mounting wire is hard to work with, partially due to the fact that it is very thick. I recommend using two pairs of pliers to make your bends. Althoughit isthick and hard to bend, it only insures that the exhaust will be mounted sturdy and strong.
Before you start your vehicle up with your newly installed Buku exhaust, you may want to become familiar with the exhaust and how it works by dis-assembling it. Whats that you say? You have already installed it on the truck? No worries! Using the large end of the included tuning and adjustment wrench, you can easily un-screw the end of the Buku, and all the components will easily come right out, in this order: End cap, tuning spring, convergent cone, and there is a small ring inside that you may need to pull out, which can easily be done with one finger. In a nutshell, here is how the exhaust works.
While at idle, the spring tension holds the Tuned Assembly at the shortest tuned length. By remaining at the shortest tuned length, the total volume of the pipe is effectively reduced allowing full exhaust pressure and maximum fuel flow to be achieved very quickly. This results in improved throttle response. When the throttle is opened, the Tuned Assembly will move almost instantly to the full tuned length, dramatically improving low-end torque and mid-range power. The power increase is likely to be more than 10% over a well designed mid-range pipe and more than 20% over a high-speed pipe.
The Tuned Assembly will remain at this full length until the motor reaches the point where the extended tuned length is no longer beneficial. It is this point where a fixed low-RPM torque pipe will fall flat and fail to deliver any further performance. The Buku Power Exhaust System, however, will automatically respond to this condition by reducing the tuned length to a point that optimizes performance. Ultimately, the Tuned Assembly will return fully to the shortest tuned length throughout the acceleration and remain there until the engine RPM is reduced. This automatic adjustment of the tuned length will happen continuously during operation and even through gearshifts, always adjusting to produce maximum power.
Those paragraphs alone almost explain exactly how the internal components work. It is recommended to use the lighter spring tensions with less powerful motors, and the heavier ones with more powerful motors for the optimum all around performance. Although, this brings up one of the great thingsof the Buku, you can tune it! If you have an extremely powerful motor, but are running in an area where space is tight, and you are most of the time not at full throttle for long periods of time, you can use a light spring to give you even better low-end torque, or put in both of the rings to give you a punchierthrottle. Granted, you will loose top-end performance by doing this, but since your not using it anyways, it doesn't matter. The thing is, when you go to an area where you do have the option to be at high speeds frequently, you don't need another exhaust! Just a quick swap of your components in your exhaust, and it islike you have a completely different motor!
Back to running your vehicle. You have your exhaust installed correctly on your vehicle, and have read all the instructions. Insert your tuning plug into thestinger closets to the header of the exhaust, gently sliding it in, and rotating it until you feel it slide in between the coils of the spring. Once it is completely in, lock it onto the exhaust using the hanger attached to the plug. Once you have made sure it is snug, you are almost ready to start your motor. At this point, your exhaust should be looking exactly like this. (Except mounted to your vehicle). Once you have completed these steps,I recommend setting your motor back to the factory needle settings. Since the Buku is so different and makes such a difference in power, you will need to completely re-tune your motor. Don't worry, the Buku makes tuning the motor very easy. It will seem slow and sluggish when you turn it on, but this is regular for any motor running at stock settings. Let your motor get warm, and your ready to tune. Follow what is stated in the included instructions, tuning for high speed first, then tuning for your low end. It should become extremely noticeable once you have tuned your high end needle, you should see a very drastic difference in your performance. Top speed should be increased greatly, also should your you acceleration from about halfway through the RPM band up. Once you have tuned your low end, be prepared to learn how to drive you RC again. The power increaseshould be very evident, and if you are anything like me, you will be giggling like a little girl and smiling at the sight of your car performingup totwice as well as it did before.
Now, your pretty psyched arent you? Guess what, you can squeeze out even more power by fine tuning your exhaust. Don't worry, it isn't complicated at all, and it is very easy to get your exhaust back to stock settings if you mess up. On the end cap of the exhaust, there is a larger %26quot;nut%26quot; that unscrews the end cap which you used earlier, and then there is a tuning nut. Adjusting this nut either stiffens or loosens the spring inside of the exhaust. The stock setting for this nut is turned completely clockwise until it stops, which anyone can remember easily. Turning the screw Counter Clockwise will give you better acceleration, most of the time only loosing minimal to none top end performance. I quickly learned that if you go too much on the tuning screw, you will eventually get to a point where you loose performance, but if you are patient and do it by small increments, you can squeeze even more performance out of the exhaust. Tuning with the springs, rings, and convergent cones can be a little more tricky, although still quite easy. Its pretty basic. If you have a high end motor that produces alot of power, for the best overall performance, you will probably want to use the heavier convergent cone (the one with the red tip), and a heavier spring. The more rings you use inside the exhaust, the punchier your throttle response is, at the expense of top end performance, and vice-versa.What do I recommend? Experiment . Have fun with it. There are a lot of combinations to try with the exhaust, and each one will give you different results.
My Personal Experiences:
The moment I fired up my Savage X 4.6 with the buku installed, it was a true thing of beauty. The exhaust has a different sound than most others at first, it was mean, and sounded ready to go. I ran a couple laps up and down my street to get my motor warm, and then brought it in for its first HSN tune. This was the first and only tune I did at 1/8th a turn, considering it was so rich. I gave it a little gas to clear out its throat, and punched the throttle. The gain in top-end performance was already noticeable, and I was happy. At this point, the top end was about the same as before the exhaust was installed, which means now while my savage was running fat as a pig, I was getting the same top-end results as I had been getting before when it was tuned perfectly. After a few more 1/10th and 1/12th turns of the HSN, my truck was a whole new beast. Even with not having touched the LSN, it accellerated decently, and the top-end speed was completely insane. It was so insane that at full speed, it was hard to steer because my tires were barely touching the ground. I estimated a good 10-15mph gain in top-end speeds. Then came the low end tuning. This is when my whole truck woke up. The first turn was 1/8th of a full turn, which was almost enough. The truck was VERY fast at this point, even with the tuning plug in, it was roaring off the line, and the top end was still amazing. I removed the tuning plug, and things got crazy! I hit the gas, and my Savage instantly flipped onto its lid. This is when I grew a huge grin all across my face. So, with the conclusion after tuning the truck and removing the tuning plug that I had to re-learn to drive my Savage, I was happy! You can't beat the power that this exhaust produces.
CONCLUSION:
Overall, I am very pleased with the entire performance and diversity of the Buku exhaust system. After using it for almost two months now, it has held up great, stayed consistent, and the tuning factor makes my truck able to adapt to almost any condition and any area. I love this exhaust dearly, and will never go back to any other exhausts on my vehicles again. It is a true innovation, and we should all give Dave a big round of applause for making such a great product.
Buku Offical Site: http://www.bukupower.com
Price: $109
Hits: Best Performance gains out of any exhaust I have tested, tune-able, and very adaptable.
Problems: Tuning takes time to get used to, and the mounting spring can be a hassle.
Direct quote fromDave, the owner of Buku Performance Products:
Buku Performance Products was conceived from a passion for technological innovation. We are focused on developing products which are truly innovative and that help the R/C enthusiast to obtain the highest levels of performance. We believe that innovative thinking and objective testing are the foundations for the finest R/C products. Every product we develop is the result of thorough research and engineering, followed up with the most exhaustive real world testing. Our devotion to fundamental research and objective evaluation ensures that out products will not only be unique in design and function but also truly superior in performance.
After I had tried several exhausts on my Savage X 4.6, I was ready to find an exhaust that really worked. I was getting tired of false claims of increased power, when mostly every exhaust I had tried only made the truck look good, and perform worse. After doing some hard research, I gave Buku a call. When Dave answered the phone, I was astounded at how professional and educated he was on the product. After having a good long talk with Dave, I was sure that I had found my exhaust. Dave was able to give me a in depth explanation of the exhaust and how it functions, and also seemed very down to Earth, like he was sure about his product and was not just trying to sell me something to put money in his own pocket. At the end of our conversation, I felt confident in my decision to give the Buku a shot, and couldn't have been more anxious to test it out.
Two days later, my exhaust came in the mail.I was very happy with the packaging and presentation of the exhaust. The exhaust is sent in a small cardboard box, with the exhaust itself protected very well by foam, and all the extra parts and gadgets in their own smallsection of the box, also well protectedby foam inserts.Included with the exhaust are a very sturdy mounting wire, a tuning plug, several zip-ties, a larger convergent cone, an extra ring (both explained later), a very detailed and comprehensive instruction booklet, a light, medium, and hard stiffness tuning springs, and a tuning and adjustment wrench. Don't forget, there are also plenty of stickers included to deck out your ride and pit area. After reading every bit of the instructions, I was very confident and was sure about the processes I needed to take to make sure I got the very best performance out of my Buku exhaust.
The mounting process for the exhaust is a breeze, and you can use virtually any header design with the exhaust. Not only are there plenty of holes for spring coupling type headers, but the exhaust is also compatible with regular rubber coupler systems. The best of both worlds! The included mounting wire is hard to work with, partially due to the fact that it is very thick. I recommend using two pairs of pliers to make your bends. Althoughit isthick and hard to bend, it only insures that the exhaust will be mounted sturdy and strong.
Before you start your vehicle up with your newly installed Buku exhaust, you may want to become familiar with the exhaust and how it works by dis-assembling it. Whats that you say? You have already installed it on the truck? No worries! Using the large end of the included tuning and adjustment wrench, you can easily un-screw the end of the Buku, and all the components will easily come right out, in this order: End cap, tuning spring, convergent cone, and there is a small ring inside that you may need to pull out, which can easily be done with one finger. In a nutshell, here is how the exhaust works.
While at idle, the spring tension holds the Tuned Assembly at the shortest tuned length. By remaining at the shortest tuned length, the total volume of the pipe is effectively reduced allowing full exhaust pressure and maximum fuel flow to be achieved very quickly. This results in improved throttle response. When the throttle is opened, the Tuned Assembly will move almost instantly to the full tuned length, dramatically improving low-end torque and mid-range power. The power increase is likely to be more than 10% over a well designed mid-range pipe and more than 20% over a high-speed pipe.
The Tuned Assembly will remain at this full length until the motor reaches the point where the extended tuned length is no longer beneficial. It is this point where a fixed low-RPM torque pipe will fall flat and fail to deliver any further performance. The Buku Power Exhaust System, however, will automatically respond to this condition by reducing the tuned length to a point that optimizes performance. Ultimately, the Tuned Assembly will return fully to the shortest tuned length throughout the acceleration and remain there until the engine RPM is reduced. This automatic adjustment of the tuned length will happen continuously during operation and even through gearshifts, always adjusting to produce maximum power.
Those paragraphs alone almost explain exactly how the internal components work. It is recommended to use the lighter spring tensions with less powerful motors, and the heavier ones with more powerful motors for the optimum all around performance. Although, this brings up one of the great thingsof the Buku, you can tune it! If you have an extremely powerful motor, but are running in an area where space is tight, and you are most of the time not at full throttle for long periods of time, you can use a light spring to give you even better low-end torque, or put in both of the rings to give you a punchierthrottle. Granted, you will loose top-end performance by doing this, but since your not using it anyways, it doesn't matter. The thing is, when you go to an area where you do have the option to be at high speeds frequently, you don't need another exhaust! Just a quick swap of your components in your exhaust, and it islike you have a completely different motor!
Back to running your vehicle. You have your exhaust installed correctly on your vehicle, and have read all the instructions. Insert your tuning plug into thestinger closets to the header of the exhaust, gently sliding it in, and rotating it until you feel it slide in between the coils of the spring. Once it is completely in, lock it onto the exhaust using the hanger attached to the plug. Once you have made sure it is snug, you are almost ready to start your motor. At this point, your exhaust should be looking exactly like this. (Except mounted to your vehicle). Once you have completed these steps,I recommend setting your motor back to the factory needle settings. Since the Buku is so different and makes such a difference in power, you will need to completely re-tune your motor. Don't worry, the Buku makes tuning the motor very easy. It will seem slow and sluggish when you turn it on, but this is regular for any motor running at stock settings. Let your motor get warm, and your ready to tune. Follow what is stated in the included instructions, tuning for high speed first, then tuning for your low end. It should become extremely noticeable once you have tuned your high end needle, you should see a very drastic difference in your performance. Top speed should be increased greatly, also should your you acceleration from about halfway through the RPM band up. Once you have tuned your low end, be prepared to learn how to drive you RC again. The power increaseshould be very evident, and if you are anything like me, you will be giggling like a little girl and smiling at the sight of your car performingup totwice as well as it did before.
Now, your pretty psyched arent you? Guess what, you can squeeze out even more power by fine tuning your exhaust. Don't worry, it isn't complicated at all, and it is very easy to get your exhaust back to stock settings if you mess up. On the end cap of the exhaust, there is a larger %26quot;nut%26quot; that unscrews the end cap which you used earlier, and then there is a tuning nut. Adjusting this nut either stiffens or loosens the spring inside of the exhaust. The stock setting for this nut is turned completely clockwise until it stops, which anyone can remember easily. Turning the screw Counter Clockwise will give you better acceleration, most of the time only loosing minimal to none top end performance. I quickly learned that if you go too much on the tuning screw, you will eventually get to a point where you loose performance, but if you are patient and do it by small increments, you can squeeze even more performance out of the exhaust. Tuning with the springs, rings, and convergent cones can be a little more tricky, although still quite easy. Its pretty basic. If you have a high end motor that produces alot of power, for the best overall performance, you will probably want to use the heavier convergent cone (the one with the red tip), and a heavier spring. The more rings you use inside the exhaust, the punchier your throttle response is, at the expense of top end performance, and vice-versa.What do I recommend? Experiment . Have fun with it. There are a lot of combinations to try with the exhaust, and each one will give you different results.
My Personal Experiences:
The moment I fired up my Savage X 4.6 with the buku installed, it was a true thing of beauty. The exhaust has a different sound than most others at first, it was mean, and sounded ready to go. I ran a couple laps up and down my street to get my motor warm, and then brought it in for its first HSN tune. This was the first and only tune I did at 1/8th a turn, considering it was so rich. I gave it a little gas to clear out its throat, and punched the throttle. The gain in top-end performance was already noticeable, and I was happy. At this point, the top end was about the same as before the exhaust was installed, which means now while my savage was running fat as a pig, I was getting the same top-end results as I had been getting before when it was tuned perfectly. After a few more 1/10th and 1/12th turns of the HSN, my truck was a whole new beast. Even with not having touched the LSN, it accellerated decently, and the top-end speed was completely insane. It was so insane that at full speed, it was hard to steer because my tires were barely touching the ground. I estimated a good 10-15mph gain in top-end speeds. Then came the low end tuning. This is when my whole truck woke up. The first turn was 1/8th of a full turn, which was almost enough. The truck was VERY fast at this point, even with the tuning plug in, it was roaring off the line, and the top end was still amazing. I removed the tuning plug, and things got crazy! I hit the gas, and my Savage instantly flipped onto its lid. This is when I grew a huge grin all across my face. So, with the conclusion after tuning the truck and removing the tuning plug that I had to re-learn to drive my Savage, I was happy! You can't beat the power that this exhaust produces.
CONCLUSION:
Overall, I am very pleased with the entire performance and diversity of the Buku exhaust system. After using it for almost two months now, it has held up great, stayed consistent, and the tuning factor makes my truck able to adapt to almost any condition and any area. I love this exhaust dearly, and will never go back to any other exhausts on my vehicles again. It is a true innovation, and we should all give Dave a big round of applause for making such a great product.
Buku Offical Site: http://www.bukupower.com
Price: $109
Hits: Best Performance gains out of any exhaust I have tested, tune-able, and very adaptable.
Problems: Tuning takes time to get used to, and the mounting spring can be a hassle.
BUKU Self-Tuning Exhaust System Review
In the RC world, one of the things that we think about most is getting the absolute best power from our vehicles that we can. One element that is crucial to having the best power possible from your vehicle is a well matched exhaust system that can complement the power of your motor. Alot of times, you can have the best motor out there, but if you haven't paired it with a good exhaust, you can kiss all the horsepower and abilities of your motor goodbye. On the flip side, if you have a old motor, or a motor that does not create alot of power, you can wake it up or give it a good kick in the rear by adding a great exhaust. The question is, which one? This is where the Buku comes in.
Direct quote fromDave, the owner of Buku Performance Products:
Buku Performance Products was conceived from a passion for technological innovation. We are focused on developing products which are truly innovative and that help the R/C enthusiast to obtain the highest levels of performance. We believe that innovative thinking and objective testing are the foundations for the finest R/C products. Every product we develop is the result of thorough research and engineering, followed up with the most exhaustive real world testing. Our devotion to fundamental research and objective evaluation ensures that out products will not only be unique in design and function but also truly superior in performance.
After I had tried several exhausts on my Savage X 4.6, I was ready to find an exhaust that really worked. I was getting tired of false claims of increased power, when mostly every exhaust I had tried only made the truck look good, and perform worse. After doing some hard research, I gave Buku a call. When Dave answered the phone, I was astounded at how professional and educated he was on the product. After having a good long talk with Dave, I was sure that I had found my exhaust. Dave was able to give me a in depth explanation of the exhaust and how it functions, and also seemed very down to Earth, like he was sure about his product and was not just trying to sell me something to put money in his own pocket. At the end of our conversation, I felt confident in my decision to give the Buku a shot, and couldn't have been more anxious to test it out.
Two days later, my exhaust came in the mail.I was very happy with the packaging and presentation of the exhaust. The exhaust is sent in a small cardboard box, with the exhaust itself protected very well by foam, and all the extra parts and gadgets in their own smallsection of the box, also well protectedby foam inserts.Included with the exhaust are a very sturdy mounting wire, a tuning plug, several zip-ties, a larger convergent cone, an extra ring (both explained later), a very detailed and comprehensive instruction booklet, a light, medium, and hard stiffness tuning springs, and a tuning and adjustment wrench. Don't forget, there are also plenty of stickers included to deck out your ride and pit area. After reading every bit of the instructions, I was very confident and was sure about the processes I needed to take to make sure I got the very best performance out of my Buku exhaust.
The mounting process for the exhaust is a breeze, and you can use virtually any header design with the exhaust. Not only are there plenty of holes for spring coupling type headers, but the exhaust is also compatible with regular rubber coupler systems. The best of both worlds! The included mounting wire is hard to work with, partially due to the fact that it is very thick. I recommend using two pairs of pliers to make your bends. Althoughit isthick and hard to bend, it only insures that the exhaust will be mounted sturdy and strong.
Before you start your vehicle up with your newly installed Buku exhaust, you may want to become familiar with the exhaust and how it works by dis-assembling it. Whats that you say? You have already installed it on the truck? No worries! Using the large end of the included tuning and adjustment wrench, you can easily un-screw the end of the Buku, and all the components will easily come right out, in this order: End cap, tuning spring, convergent cone, and there is a small ring inside that you may need to pull out, which can easily be done with one finger. In a nutshell, here is how the exhaust works.
While at idle, the spring tension holds the Tuned Assembly at the shortest tuned length. By remaining at the shortest tuned length, the total volume of the pipe is effectively reduced allowing full exhaust pressure and maximum fuel flow to be achieved very quickly. This results in improved throttle response. When the throttle is opened, the Tuned Assembly will move almost instantly to the full tuned length, dramatically improving low-end torque and mid-range power. The power increase is likely to be more than 10% over a well designed mid-range pipe and more than 20% over a high-speed pipe.
The Tuned Assembly will remain at this full length until the motor reaches the point where the extended tuned length is no longer beneficial. It is this point where a fixed low-RPM torque pipe will fall flat and fail to deliver any further performance. The Buku Power Exhaust System, however, will automatically respond to this condition by reducing the tuned length to a point that optimizes performance. Ultimately, the Tuned Assembly will return fully to the shortest tuned length throughout the acceleration and remain there until the engine RPM is reduced. This automatic adjustment of the tuned length will happen continuously during operation and even through gearshifts, always adjusting to produce maximum power.
Those paragraphs alone almost explain exactly how the internal components work. It is recommended to use the lighter spring tensions with less powerful motors, and the heavier ones with more powerful motors for the optimum all around performance. Although, this brings up one of the great thingsof the Buku, you can tune it! If you have an extremely powerful motor, but are running in an area where space is tight, and you are most of the time not at full throttle for long periods of time, you can use a light spring to give you even better low-end torque, or put in both of the rings to give you a punchierthrottle. Granted, you will loose top-end performance by doing this, but since your not using it anyways, it doesn't matter. The thing is, when you go to an area where you do have the option to be at high speeds frequently, you don't need another exhaust! Just a quick swap of your components in your exhaust, and it islike you have a completely different motor!
Back to running your vehicle. You have your exhaust installed correctly on your vehicle, and have read all the instructions. Insert your tuning plug into thestinger closets to the header of the exhaust, gently sliding it in, and rotating it until you feel it slide in between the coils of the spring. Once it is completely in, lock it onto the exhaust using the hanger attached to the plug. Once you have made sure it is snug, you are almost ready to start your motor. At this point, your exhaust should be looking exactly like this. (Except mounted to your vehicle). Once you have completed these steps,I recommend setting your motor back to the factory needle settings. Since the Buku is so different and makes such a difference in power, you will need to completely re-tune your motor. Don't worry, the Buku makes tuning the motor very easy. It will seem slow and sluggish when you turn it on, but this is regular for any motor running at stock settings. Let your motor get warm, and your ready to tune. Follow what is stated in the included instructions, tuning for high speed first, then tuning for your low end. It should become extremely noticeable once you have tuned your high end needle, you should see a very drastic difference in your performance. Top speed should be increased greatly, also should your you acceleration from about halfway through the RPM band up. Once you have tuned your low end, be prepared to learn how to drive you RC again. The power increaseshould be very evident, and if you are anything like me, you will be giggling like a little girl and smiling at the sight of your car performingup totwice as well as it did before.
Now, your pretty psyched arent you? Guess what, you can squeeze out even more power by fine tuning your exhaust. Don't worry, it isn't complicated at all, and it is very easy to get your exhaust back to stock settings if you mess up. On the end cap of the exhaust, there is a larger %26quot;nut%26quot; that unscrews the end cap which you used earlier, and then there is a tuning nut. Adjusting this nut either stiffens or loosens the spring inside of the exhaust. The stock setting for this nut is turned completely clockwise until it stops, which anyone can remember easily. Turning the screw Counter Clockwise will give you better acceleration, most of the time only loosing minimal to none top end performance. I quickly learned that if you go too much on the tuning screw, you will eventually get to a point where you loose performance, but if you are patient and do it by small increments, you can squeeze even more performance out of the exhaust. Tuning with the springs, rings, and convergent cones can be a little more tricky, although still quite easy. Its pretty basic. If you have a high end motor that produces alot of power, for the best overall performance, you will probably want to use the heavier convergent cone (the one with the red tip), and a heavier spring. The more rings you use inside the exhaust, the punchier your throttle response is, at the expense of top end performance, and vice-versa.What do I recommend? Experiment . Have fun with it. There are a lot of combinations to try with the exhaust, and each one will give you different results.
My Personal Experiences:
The moment I fired up my Savage X 4.6 with the buku installed, it was a true thing of beauty. The exhaust has a different sound than most others at first, it was mean, and sounded ready to go. I ran a couple laps up and down my street to get my motor warm, and then brought it in for its first HSN tune. This was the first and only tune I did at 1/8th a turn, considering it was so rich. I gave it a little gas to clear out its throat, and punched the throttle. The gain in top-end performance was already noticeable, and I was happy. At this point, the top end was about the same as before the exhaust was installed, which means now while my savage was running fat as a pig, I was getting the same top-end results as I had been getting before when it was tuned perfectly. After a few more 1/10th and 1/12th turns of the HSN, my truck was a whole new beast. Even with not having touched the LSN, it accellerated decently, and the top-end speed was completely insane. It was so insane that at full speed, it was hard to steer because my tires were barely touching the ground. I estimated a good 10-15mph gain in top-end speeds. Then came the low end tuning. This is when my whole truck woke up. The first turn was 1/8th of a full turn, which was almost enough. The truck was VERY fast at this point, even with the tuning plug in, it was roaring off the line, and the top end was still amazing. I removed the tuning plug, and things got crazy! I hit the gas, and my Savage instantly flipped onto its lid. This is when I grew a huge grin all across my face. So, with the conclusion after tuning the truck and removing the tuning plug that I had to re-learn to drive my Savage, I was happy! You can't beat the power that this exhaust produces.
CONCLUSION:
Overall, I am very pleased with the entire performance and diversity of the Buku exhaust system. After using it for almost two months now, it has held up great, stayed consistent, and the tuning factor makes my truck able to adapt to almost any condition and any area. I love this exhaust dearly, and will never go back to any other exhausts on my vehicles again. It is a true innovation, and we should all give Dave a big round of applause for making such a great product.
Buku Offical Site: http://www.bukupower.com
Price: $109
Hits: Best Performance gains out of any exhaust I have tested, tune-able, and very adaptable.
Problems: Tuning takes time to get used to, and the mounting spring can be a hassle.
Direct quote fromDave, the owner of Buku Performance Products:
Buku Performance Products was conceived from a passion for technological innovation. We are focused on developing products which are truly innovative and that help the R/C enthusiast to obtain the highest levels of performance. We believe that innovative thinking and objective testing are the foundations for the finest R/C products. Every product we develop is the result of thorough research and engineering, followed up with the most exhaustive real world testing. Our devotion to fundamental research and objective evaluation ensures that out products will not only be unique in design and function but also truly superior in performance.
After I had tried several exhausts on my Savage X 4.6, I was ready to find an exhaust that really worked. I was getting tired of false claims of increased power, when mostly every exhaust I had tried only made the truck look good, and perform worse. After doing some hard research, I gave Buku a call. When Dave answered the phone, I was astounded at how professional and educated he was on the product. After having a good long talk with Dave, I was sure that I had found my exhaust. Dave was able to give me a in depth explanation of the exhaust and how it functions, and also seemed very down to Earth, like he was sure about his product and was not just trying to sell me something to put money in his own pocket. At the end of our conversation, I felt confident in my decision to give the Buku a shot, and couldn't have been more anxious to test it out.
Two days later, my exhaust came in the mail.I was very happy with the packaging and presentation of the exhaust. The exhaust is sent in a small cardboard box, with the exhaust itself protected very well by foam, and all the extra parts and gadgets in their own smallsection of the box, also well protectedby foam inserts.Included with the exhaust are a very sturdy mounting wire, a tuning plug, several zip-ties, a larger convergent cone, an extra ring (both explained later), a very detailed and comprehensive instruction booklet, a light, medium, and hard stiffness tuning springs, and a tuning and adjustment wrench. Don't forget, there are also plenty of stickers included to deck out your ride and pit area. After reading every bit of the instructions, I was very confident and was sure about the processes I needed to take to make sure I got the very best performance out of my Buku exhaust.
The mounting process for the exhaust is a breeze, and you can use virtually any header design with the exhaust. Not only are there plenty of holes for spring coupling type headers, but the exhaust is also compatible with regular rubber coupler systems. The best of both worlds! The included mounting wire is hard to work with, partially due to the fact that it is very thick. I recommend using two pairs of pliers to make your bends. Althoughit isthick and hard to bend, it only insures that the exhaust will be mounted sturdy and strong.
Before you start your vehicle up with your newly installed Buku exhaust, you may want to become familiar with the exhaust and how it works by dis-assembling it. Whats that you say? You have already installed it on the truck? No worries! Using the large end of the included tuning and adjustment wrench, you can easily un-screw the end of the Buku, and all the components will easily come right out, in this order: End cap, tuning spring, convergent cone, and there is a small ring inside that you may need to pull out, which can easily be done with one finger. In a nutshell, here is how the exhaust works.
While at idle, the spring tension holds the Tuned Assembly at the shortest tuned length. By remaining at the shortest tuned length, the total volume of the pipe is effectively reduced allowing full exhaust pressure and maximum fuel flow to be achieved very quickly. This results in improved throttle response. When the throttle is opened, the Tuned Assembly will move almost instantly to the full tuned length, dramatically improving low-end torque and mid-range power. The power increase is likely to be more than 10% over a well designed mid-range pipe and more than 20% over a high-speed pipe.
The Tuned Assembly will remain at this full length until the motor reaches the point where the extended tuned length is no longer beneficial. It is this point where a fixed low-RPM torque pipe will fall flat and fail to deliver any further performance. The Buku Power Exhaust System, however, will automatically respond to this condition by reducing the tuned length to a point that optimizes performance. Ultimately, the Tuned Assembly will return fully to the shortest tuned length throughout the acceleration and remain there until the engine RPM is reduced. This automatic adjustment of the tuned length will happen continuously during operation and even through gearshifts, always adjusting to produce maximum power.
Those paragraphs alone almost explain exactly how the internal components work. It is recommended to use the lighter spring tensions with less powerful motors, and the heavier ones with more powerful motors for the optimum all around performance. Although, this brings up one of the great thingsof the Buku, you can tune it! If you have an extremely powerful motor, but are running in an area where space is tight, and you are most of the time not at full throttle for long periods of time, you can use a light spring to give you even better low-end torque, or put in both of the rings to give you a punchierthrottle. Granted, you will loose top-end performance by doing this, but since your not using it anyways, it doesn't matter. The thing is, when you go to an area where you do have the option to be at high speeds frequently, you don't need another exhaust! Just a quick swap of your components in your exhaust, and it islike you have a completely different motor!
Back to running your vehicle. You have your exhaust installed correctly on your vehicle, and have read all the instructions. Insert your tuning plug into thestinger closets to the header of the exhaust, gently sliding it in, and rotating it until you feel it slide in between the coils of the spring. Once it is completely in, lock it onto the exhaust using the hanger attached to the plug. Once you have made sure it is snug, you are almost ready to start your motor. At this point, your exhaust should be looking exactly like this. (Except mounted to your vehicle). Once you have completed these steps,I recommend setting your motor back to the factory needle settings. Since the Buku is so different and makes such a difference in power, you will need to completely re-tune your motor. Don't worry, the Buku makes tuning the motor very easy. It will seem slow and sluggish when you turn it on, but this is regular for any motor running at stock settings. Let your motor get warm, and your ready to tune. Follow what is stated in the included instructions, tuning for high speed first, then tuning for your low end. It should become extremely noticeable once you have tuned your high end needle, you should see a very drastic difference in your performance. Top speed should be increased greatly, also should your you acceleration from about halfway through the RPM band up. Once you have tuned your low end, be prepared to learn how to drive you RC again. The power increaseshould be very evident, and if you are anything like me, you will be giggling like a little girl and smiling at the sight of your car performingup totwice as well as it did before.
Now, your pretty psyched arent you? Guess what, you can squeeze out even more power by fine tuning your exhaust. Don't worry, it isn't complicated at all, and it is very easy to get your exhaust back to stock settings if you mess up. On the end cap of the exhaust, there is a larger %26quot;nut%26quot; that unscrews the end cap which you used earlier, and then there is a tuning nut. Adjusting this nut either stiffens or loosens the spring inside of the exhaust. The stock setting for this nut is turned completely clockwise until it stops, which anyone can remember easily. Turning the screw Counter Clockwise will give you better acceleration, most of the time only loosing minimal to none top end performance. I quickly learned that if you go too much on the tuning screw, you will eventually get to a point where you loose performance, but if you are patient and do it by small increments, you can squeeze even more performance out of the exhaust. Tuning with the springs, rings, and convergent cones can be a little more tricky, although still quite easy. Its pretty basic. If you have a high end motor that produces alot of power, for the best overall performance, you will probably want to use the heavier convergent cone (the one with the red tip), and a heavier spring. The more rings you use inside the exhaust, the punchier your throttle response is, at the expense of top end performance, and vice-versa.What do I recommend? Experiment . Have fun with it. There are a lot of combinations to try with the exhaust, and each one will give you different results.
My Personal Experiences:
The moment I fired up my Savage X 4.6 with the buku installed, it was a true thing of beauty. The exhaust has a different sound than most others at first, it was mean, and sounded ready to go. I ran a couple laps up and down my street to get my motor warm, and then brought it in for its first HSN tune. This was the first and only tune I did at 1/8th a turn, considering it was so rich. I gave it a little gas to clear out its throat, and punched the throttle. The gain in top-end performance was already noticeable, and I was happy. At this point, the top end was about the same as before the exhaust was installed, which means now while my savage was running fat as a pig, I was getting the same top-end results as I had been getting before when it was tuned perfectly. After a few more 1/10th and 1/12th turns of the HSN, my truck was a whole new beast. Even with not having touched the LSN, it accellerated decently, and the top-end speed was completely insane. It was so insane that at full speed, it was hard to steer because my tires were barely touching the ground. I estimated a good 10-15mph gain in top-end speeds. Then came the low end tuning. This is when my whole truck woke up. The first turn was 1/8th of a full turn, which was almost enough. The truck was VERY fast at this point, even with the tuning plug in, it was roaring off the line, and the top end was still amazing. I removed the tuning plug, and things got crazy! I hit the gas, and my Savage instantly flipped onto its lid. This is when I grew a huge grin all across my face. So, with the conclusion after tuning the truck and removing the tuning plug that I had to re-learn to drive my Savage, I was happy! You can't beat the power that this exhaust produces.
CONCLUSION:
Overall, I am very pleased with the entire performance and diversity of the Buku exhaust system. After using it for almost two months now, it has held up great, stayed consistent, and the tuning factor makes my truck able to adapt to almost any condition and any area. I love this exhaust dearly, and will never go back to any other exhausts on my vehicles again. It is a true innovation, and we should all give Dave a big round of applause for making such a great product.
Buku Offical Site: http://www.bukupower.com
Price: $109
Hits: Best Performance gains out of any exhaust I have tested, tune-able, and very adaptable.
Problems: Tuning takes time to get used to, and the mounting spring can be a hassle.
Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya is Africa's second highest mountain, after Kilimanjaro. It is estimated to be 2.5 million years old, and Kilimanjaro at 750,00 years of age is really an upstart. Time has really taken its toll, and the peak is thought to have dropped from 6,500 m those millions of years ago to 5,199 m today. The mountain is an extinct volcano, whose plug forms what is today the peak area. The crater was long ago, done to death, by nature's untiring erosion agents.
Mount Kenya is an awe-inspiring spectacle that dominates the central Kenyan highlands. It is perhaps understandable that the Kikuyu people who reside on its lower slopes thought it fit for Gods' abode. And it inspires people in strange ways. In 1943, Felice Benuzzi, an Italian prisoner of war held at Nanyuki at the base of the mountain, and two companions, escaped and attempted to scale the summit. With just a few handmade climbing tools, he managed reach Point Lenana, the mountain's third highest peak.
But Benuzzi was at least an accomplished mountaineer. In 1988, the Mount Kenya Rescue Team discovered and retrieved an elder of the Meru people way up at the chilly heights of Peak Nelion (5,188 m). Only experts, with proper equipment and guides reach Nelion. He appeared unaware of the feat he had accomplished and was perturbed by the fuss his rescuers raised. He explained his mission was "going to God". He was kitted in a manner you will not see recommended in any guide book- in a single blanket and open sandals. The animals do weird things too: a few years ago, the frozen bodies of a leopard and colobus monkey were discovered at Nelion.
Mount Kenya is located 180 km to the north of Nairobi. The mountain falls within Mount Kenya National Park. The park is made up of a protected area above 3,200 m altitude, together with two small salients reaching to 2,450 m along the Naro Moru and Sirimon trails. It was set up in 1949 and covers an area of 715 sq km. It is further surrounded by the Mount Kenya National Reserve, which extends over 2,075 sq km. The park has the distinction of being simultaneously a World Heritage Site and an International Biosphere Reserve
The mountain is made up of three main zones: the rocky peak region, the afro-alpine moorland with its scattering of giant vegetation, and the extensive lower slopes covered in mountain forest and bamboo. The astonishing ecological diversity is one of the attractions of this giant. The ecological processes that have brought about the afro-alpine flora in particular intrigue scientists. There are 81 species of plants here that are found nowhere else in the world.
In the lower forest zone, there is plenty of wildlife including buffalo, elephant, sykes monkey and bushbuck. The animals are however generally difficult to see. Further up, the animals are even scarcer though hyena, leopard, buffalo and civet cats have been sighted. The only animal you are likely to see in the upper alpine zones is the rock hyrax. Though it is the size of a domestic cat, it resembles a rat more. The seemingly humble rock hyrax has some powerful relatives in the animal kingdom and it counts the elephant as its biological kin.
The mountain attracts over 30,000 enthusiasts every year. Point Lenana (4,985 m), the so-called trekkers peak, can be reached by any reasonably fit and suitably prepared person. The summit has the twin peaks of Batian (5,199 m) and Nelion (5,188 m), and is accessible to only those with technical mountaineering and rock climbing experience. This mountain is not an easy one to conquer and each year not more than 100 climbers make it to the twin summit peaks. Mount Kenya is in fact considered to be more technically challenging than the higher Kilimanjaro (5,894 m). But those who make it to the top experience some of Africa's finest rock and ice climbing.
The mountain has very many fans and especially fascinates technical climbers. The author and mountaineer, Rick Ridgeway - author of the Seven Summits, declares that of all the worlds' mountains this is his favourite. Halford Mackinder planned and led the first expedition on record to reach the summit in 1899. But if the Meru elder mentioned above is anything to go by, the locals must have long ago been to the mountaintop. The Mackinder trip was a great success and his party discovered many species of animal and plant life then unknown in Europe. A new species of eagle owl, for example, was first recorded by this expedition and subsequently named after Mackinder.
Though Mount Kenya is practically on the equator, you will find snow and ice and even glaciers. However, in the one hundred years since Mackinder conquered the mountain, the number of glaciers has dropped from 18 to only 7 that remain today. The culprit for this is the global climate change that has accelerated in recent years. Scientists tell us that during the ice ages large glaciers reached below 3,000 m. Today the largest glacier is the Lewis Glacier at 4,600 m. The continuing retreat of glaciers is expected to have a negative impact on downstream eco-systems, not to mention the scenic appeal of the mountain.
Mount Kenya is the source of Tana River- Kenya's biggest river- and was for many years seen as an inexhaustible water fountain. Not any more- the loss of glaciers and forest cover has brought this assumption into disrepute. The loss of forest cover is particularly worrying, because it is avoidable. How to save the forests of Mount Kenya has long engaged environmentalist Wangari Maathai -the 2004 Nobel Peace Prize winner. She was born on the lower slopes of the mountain and has in her lifetime witnessed the changes up at the mountain.
You can reach the peak area by taking one of three routes: Naro Moru, Sirimon and Chogoria. Good roads will get you form Nairobi to Naro Moru, Nanyuki and Chogoria - the base towns for each of the trails. There are alternative routes but most have fallen into disuse and you need superior navigation skills and stamina to attempt them. This includes: Burguret, Meru, Kamweti, and Timau. It is highly recommended that you stick to the three popular routes. But if you have a good reason for doing otherwise, or indeed for pioneering your own route, you are required to register with the park authorities.
The Naro Moru route approaches the mountain from the west and is easily the most popular. The trail is well serviced with rest huts and is the fastest way to the peaks. It is however the steepest and climbers vulnerable to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) may experience difficulties. The hike will take 4 days, though you may opt for an additional day at the summit. You start with a fairly steep 5-hour walk from Park Gate to Met Station (3,050 m). This is where you spend the first night and acclimatize to the thinning mountain air.
The next day is the longest and you will walk, under varying terrain, for anywhere between 8 and 10 hours. You spend the night at Mackinders Camp (4,200 m), in the vicinity of the peak area. You really should have an early night on this day. Very early the next morning -2.00 a.m is the usual time- you set out to attempt Point Lenana. The mountain is generally clear in the morning and stormy in the afternoon- so, the idea is for you to ascend and descend the peak when you have good traction. This is the part of the hike where some experience symptoms of altitude related ailments.
It will take you about 5 hours to reach Lenana. Here you must take some photos, to show the folks back home how you fared at the top of God's Mountain. Afterwards, you descend in 3 hours to Mackinders Camp for breakfast. Then ascending back to Teleki Valley via Camel Rocks, you reach Met Station in about 4 hours. The night rest is at Met Station, before the final descent to Park Gate.
The Sirimon route has its base at Nanyuki to the north of the mountain. The route offers easier climbing than the Naro Moru trail and is also more scenic. It normally takes 5 days up and down the mountain. You start with a 3-4 hours walk through rain forest to overnight at Old Moses camp (3,300 m). Next day after breakfast you hike through the moorland and the Liki and Mackinder valleys. You reach Shipton's camp (4,200 m) after a 6-7 hour hike. You spend the night here before setting out very early the next morning to attempt Point Lenana.
The Chogoria route begins at the town of the same name to the west of the mountain. This is the by far most beautiful and scenic of the popular routes. You will enjoy dramatic views of waterfalls, valleys, tarns and rugged rock formations. But the trail is not so popular because it is also the longest and therefore toughest. It will take you 6 days to ascend and descend the mountain. There are no usable service huts along the route and you must carry a tent along. Whichever route you use, you can prolong your enjoyment of these heights by taking a day to do the Summit Circuit Path.
It is important that you take enough water - about 4 to 6 litres daily- to keep dehydration at bay. Dehydration makes you more vulnerable to altitude sickness and hypothermia. Hypothermia is lowering of body temperature and symptoms include clumsiness and disorientation. Victims of the condition need to be quickly provided with a warm and dry environment. At heights above 3,000 m, oxygen levels reduce and altitude sickness stalks the trekker. That is why a fast climb is not advised, as you have no opportunity to acclimatize. The symptoms for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) are nausea, headache, fatigue and general malaise. You should always descend to lower altitude with the onset of symptoms.
Other more severe medical conditions that can arise are High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). The coming of HAPE is betrayed by a dry cough and difficulty in breathing. HACE is marked by slurred speech, severe headache and disoriented behaviour. HACE and HAPE are both potentially fatal and you should always descend to lower altitude and seek treatment. To reduce chances of mountain sickness, it is advisable to acclimatize by spending an extra night near Park Gate or at the mountain huts above 4,000 m. If you temper your zeal for the peaks and take a slow sensible hike you will enjoy the adventure and will be all right.
You will generally need a guide and porters so that you can concentrate on the hike. Always go for those who have high altitude experience and are accredited by the park authorities. They will know the routes, and a good one is worth his weight in gold, in event of sickness and other contingencies. The porters shoulder the heavy stuff while you carry a daypack with essentials such warm clothing, fire making capability, some food and drinks, a flashlight and first aid kit.
The stuff you must bring along includes: warm clothing, waterproof hiking boots, rain suit, sleeping bags, flashlights, sunglasses and hand gloves. Many climbers find it expedient to buy a Mount Kenya climbing package in order to take advantage of those with local knowledge. Such a package will include transport, accommodation in the mountain huts, meals while on the climb, park entry fees, services of an experienced mountain guide and porters and cooks.
The main rainy season in the Mount Kenya region falls from late March to June, with secondary rains appearing from late October to December. You can climb the mountain at any time of year but the most comfortable climb is achieved in the dry months of January and February and from July to October.
After your climb, you can relax at some of the excellent hotels and resorts in the Mount Kenya area. Before you leave the country, take to heart the sentiments of the Italian climber Carlo Spinelli, who said: "I consider myself a nature lover more than a mountaineer, and for this reason Kenya has the best of both mountain and wilderness". Take time to see wildlife on a Kenya safari in this region or in other parts of the country.
Copyright Africa Point
Mount Kenya is an awe-inspiring spectacle that dominates the central Kenyan highlands. It is perhaps understandable that the Kikuyu people who reside on its lower slopes thought it fit for Gods' abode. And it inspires people in strange ways. In 1943, Felice Benuzzi, an Italian prisoner of war held at Nanyuki at the base of the mountain, and two companions, escaped and attempted to scale the summit. With just a few handmade climbing tools, he managed reach Point Lenana, the mountain's third highest peak.
But Benuzzi was at least an accomplished mountaineer. In 1988, the Mount Kenya Rescue Team discovered and retrieved an elder of the Meru people way up at the chilly heights of Peak Nelion (5,188 m). Only experts, with proper equipment and guides reach Nelion. He appeared unaware of the feat he had accomplished and was perturbed by the fuss his rescuers raised. He explained his mission was "going to God". He was kitted in a manner you will not see recommended in any guide book- in a single blanket and open sandals. The animals do weird things too: a few years ago, the frozen bodies of a leopard and colobus monkey were discovered at Nelion.
Mount Kenya is located 180 km to the north of Nairobi. The mountain falls within Mount Kenya National Park. The park is made up of a protected area above 3,200 m altitude, together with two small salients reaching to 2,450 m along the Naro Moru and Sirimon trails. It was set up in 1949 and covers an area of 715 sq km. It is further surrounded by the Mount Kenya National Reserve, which extends over 2,075 sq km. The park has the distinction of being simultaneously a World Heritage Site and an International Biosphere Reserve
The mountain is made up of three main zones: the rocky peak region, the afro-alpine moorland with its scattering of giant vegetation, and the extensive lower slopes covered in mountain forest and bamboo. The astonishing ecological diversity is one of the attractions of this giant. The ecological processes that have brought about the afro-alpine flora in particular intrigue scientists. There are 81 species of plants here that are found nowhere else in the world.
In the lower forest zone, there is plenty of wildlife including buffalo, elephant, sykes monkey and bushbuck. The animals are however generally difficult to see. Further up, the animals are even scarcer though hyena, leopard, buffalo and civet cats have been sighted. The only animal you are likely to see in the upper alpine zones is the rock hyrax. Though it is the size of a domestic cat, it resembles a rat more. The seemingly humble rock hyrax has some powerful relatives in the animal kingdom and it counts the elephant as its biological kin.
The mountain attracts over 30,000 enthusiasts every year. Point Lenana (4,985 m), the so-called trekkers peak, can be reached by any reasonably fit and suitably prepared person. The summit has the twin peaks of Batian (5,199 m) and Nelion (5,188 m), and is accessible to only those with technical mountaineering and rock climbing experience. This mountain is not an easy one to conquer and each year not more than 100 climbers make it to the twin summit peaks. Mount Kenya is in fact considered to be more technically challenging than the higher Kilimanjaro (5,894 m). But those who make it to the top experience some of Africa's finest rock and ice climbing.
The mountain has very many fans and especially fascinates technical climbers. The author and mountaineer, Rick Ridgeway - author of the Seven Summits, declares that of all the worlds' mountains this is his favourite. Halford Mackinder planned and led the first expedition on record to reach the summit in 1899. But if the Meru elder mentioned above is anything to go by, the locals must have long ago been to the mountaintop. The Mackinder trip was a great success and his party discovered many species of animal and plant life then unknown in Europe. A new species of eagle owl, for example, was first recorded by this expedition and subsequently named after Mackinder.
Though Mount Kenya is practically on the equator, you will find snow and ice and even glaciers. However, in the one hundred years since Mackinder conquered the mountain, the number of glaciers has dropped from 18 to only 7 that remain today. The culprit for this is the global climate change that has accelerated in recent years. Scientists tell us that during the ice ages large glaciers reached below 3,000 m. Today the largest glacier is the Lewis Glacier at 4,600 m. The continuing retreat of glaciers is expected to have a negative impact on downstream eco-systems, not to mention the scenic appeal of the mountain.
Mount Kenya is the source of Tana River- Kenya's biggest river- and was for many years seen as an inexhaustible water fountain. Not any more- the loss of glaciers and forest cover has brought this assumption into disrepute. The loss of forest cover is particularly worrying, because it is avoidable. How to save the forests of Mount Kenya has long engaged environmentalist Wangari Maathai -the 2004 Nobel Peace Prize winner. She was born on the lower slopes of the mountain and has in her lifetime witnessed the changes up at the mountain.
You can reach the peak area by taking one of three routes: Naro Moru, Sirimon and Chogoria. Good roads will get you form Nairobi to Naro Moru, Nanyuki and Chogoria - the base towns for each of the trails. There are alternative routes but most have fallen into disuse and you need superior navigation skills and stamina to attempt them. This includes: Burguret, Meru, Kamweti, and Timau. It is highly recommended that you stick to the three popular routes. But if you have a good reason for doing otherwise, or indeed for pioneering your own route, you are required to register with the park authorities.
The Naro Moru route approaches the mountain from the west and is easily the most popular. The trail is well serviced with rest huts and is the fastest way to the peaks. It is however the steepest and climbers vulnerable to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) may experience difficulties. The hike will take 4 days, though you may opt for an additional day at the summit. You start with a fairly steep 5-hour walk from Park Gate to Met Station (3,050 m). This is where you spend the first night and acclimatize to the thinning mountain air.
The next day is the longest and you will walk, under varying terrain, for anywhere between 8 and 10 hours. You spend the night at Mackinders Camp (4,200 m), in the vicinity of the peak area. You really should have an early night on this day. Very early the next morning -2.00 a.m is the usual time- you set out to attempt Point Lenana. The mountain is generally clear in the morning and stormy in the afternoon- so, the idea is for you to ascend and descend the peak when you have good traction. This is the part of the hike where some experience symptoms of altitude related ailments.
It will take you about 5 hours to reach Lenana. Here you must take some photos, to show the folks back home how you fared at the top of God's Mountain. Afterwards, you descend in 3 hours to Mackinders Camp for breakfast. Then ascending back to Teleki Valley via Camel Rocks, you reach Met Station in about 4 hours. The night rest is at Met Station, before the final descent to Park Gate.
The Sirimon route has its base at Nanyuki to the north of the mountain. The route offers easier climbing than the Naro Moru trail and is also more scenic. It normally takes 5 days up and down the mountain. You start with a 3-4 hours walk through rain forest to overnight at Old Moses camp (3,300 m). Next day after breakfast you hike through the moorland and the Liki and Mackinder valleys. You reach Shipton's camp (4,200 m) after a 6-7 hour hike. You spend the night here before setting out very early the next morning to attempt Point Lenana.
The Chogoria route begins at the town of the same name to the west of the mountain. This is the by far most beautiful and scenic of the popular routes. You will enjoy dramatic views of waterfalls, valleys, tarns and rugged rock formations. But the trail is not so popular because it is also the longest and therefore toughest. It will take you 6 days to ascend and descend the mountain. There are no usable service huts along the route and you must carry a tent along. Whichever route you use, you can prolong your enjoyment of these heights by taking a day to do the Summit Circuit Path.
It is important that you take enough water - about 4 to 6 litres daily- to keep dehydration at bay. Dehydration makes you more vulnerable to altitude sickness and hypothermia. Hypothermia is lowering of body temperature and symptoms include clumsiness and disorientation. Victims of the condition need to be quickly provided with a warm and dry environment. At heights above 3,000 m, oxygen levels reduce and altitude sickness stalks the trekker. That is why a fast climb is not advised, as you have no opportunity to acclimatize. The symptoms for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) are nausea, headache, fatigue and general malaise. You should always descend to lower altitude with the onset of symptoms.
Other more severe medical conditions that can arise are High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). The coming of HAPE is betrayed by a dry cough and difficulty in breathing. HACE is marked by slurred speech, severe headache and disoriented behaviour. HACE and HAPE are both potentially fatal and you should always descend to lower altitude and seek treatment. To reduce chances of mountain sickness, it is advisable to acclimatize by spending an extra night near Park Gate or at the mountain huts above 4,000 m. If you temper your zeal for the peaks and take a slow sensible hike you will enjoy the adventure and will be all right.
You will generally need a guide and porters so that you can concentrate on the hike. Always go for those who have high altitude experience and are accredited by the park authorities. They will know the routes, and a good one is worth his weight in gold, in event of sickness and other contingencies. The porters shoulder the heavy stuff while you carry a daypack with essentials such warm clothing, fire making capability, some food and drinks, a flashlight and first aid kit.
The stuff you must bring along includes: warm clothing, waterproof hiking boots, rain suit, sleeping bags, flashlights, sunglasses and hand gloves. Many climbers find it expedient to buy a Mount Kenya climbing package in order to take advantage of those with local knowledge. Such a package will include transport, accommodation in the mountain huts, meals while on the climb, park entry fees, services of an experienced mountain guide and porters and cooks.
The main rainy season in the Mount Kenya region falls from late March to June, with secondary rains appearing from late October to December. You can climb the mountain at any time of year but the most comfortable climb is achieved in the dry months of January and February and from July to October.
After your climb, you can relax at some of the excellent hotels and resorts in the Mount Kenya area. Before you leave the country, take to heart the sentiments of the Italian climber Carlo Spinelli, who said: "I consider myself a nature lover more than a mountaineer, and for this reason Kenya has the best of both mountain and wilderness". Take time to see wildlife on a Kenya safari in this region or in other parts of the country.
Copyright Africa Point
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